I have lived near the Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo for almost three years now but, until accepting an invitation to watch their Turtle Dance with Pollen and her family, I’d never been there, nor did I know anything about it. Although fewer than 1000 people currently live on the Pueblo, it once had nearly 6,000 residents. According to New Mexico Magazine, “… San Juan Pueblo (O’ke in Tewa) was the center of an Indian meeting ground, its people so powerful that only an O’ke native could declare war for the Pueblo Indians. Although called a Taoseno, Pueblo Revolt leader Pope actually was a San Juan native.” I had no idea. My “Pueblo universe” has been very tied to Taos. I want to change that by exploring the other 18 Pueblos in my area.
So we headed off in several cars to watch the dances at Ohkay Owingeh. On the drive down Pollen talked about the ancient languages of the two Pueblos—Tiwa (pronounced Tee’ wah) in Taos and Tewa (pronounced Tay’ wah) in Ohkay Owingeh. Tiwa is not written, but spoken only. The languages embody much about the sacred and ceremonial practices of the Pueblos and, for that reason, are never to be taught to outsiders (however, it has been called to my attention that Tewa is both written and taught in the schools). Tiwa and Tewa share links and commonalities that create a sense of community between the Pueblos using them, influencing many of their traditions and infusing their cultures with similarities. There is some suspicion of the Towa (pronounced Toe’ wah) language and its people. It is used only by the Jemez Pueblo Indians, and because it is completely separate, and shares no common threads with Tiwa and Tewa, there is no bond between these Pueblos. Their lives and ceremonies lack the same connecting concordance as the other villages because of this.
A difference between the Pueblos that Pollen pointed out is in Ohkay Owingeh, men are allowed to dance with short hair. As she put it, their Pueblo is more progressive than Taos. Taos, being very traditional, requires that all dancers have long hair. She explains that some Pueblos modernize for various reasons. Many people in Ohkay Owingeh, for instance, work away from the Pueblo and many have joined the military, so they have to cut their hair. They are not punished for doing so. Taos has the luxury of a steady tourist trade, which allows more people to earn livings on the Pueblo, thus permitting more traditions to be upheld.
It is considered disrespectful to describe the dances. They are spiritual ceremonies intended to be experienced in the moment. I highly recommend a visit to any of Ohkay Owingeh’s dances, to experience them in person. A schedule of events can be obtained from the Pueblo offices.
After the final dance we walked across the ancient plaza to the equally ancient adobe home of my friends’ friends. I don’t even know their names; I wasn’t formally introduced. I was a total stranger to them, and Anglo. Yet I was welcomed into their warm, ancestral home, unquestioningly, and offered a place at their feast table. As far as I’m concerned, these Pueblo people know how to keep Christmas. I will take them into my heart and practice their generosity of spirit. There could be no greater gift.
Photos are not allowed during the dances at Ohkay Owingeh so I include, here, pictures of the Pueblo on a non Feast Day.
This article was useful when looking for:
- ohkay owingeh turtle dance (12)
- https://high-road-artist com/1701/southwest-living/among-the-ancients-part-2-ohkay-owingeh-san-juan-pueblo/ (1)
Thanks for the history and current practices. We are generally ignorant of our own indigenousness peoples, and this is truly sad. You are an amazing fount of education my dear:)
XOXOXO
Grace
You’re more than welcome. It’s a blessing to be exposed to these cultures from the inside. It gives a perspective I couldn’t have otherwise. I’m very grateful.
With all due respect, I’m glad you had the opportunity to attend our Turtle Dance. As you pointed out, no photography is allowed. This is subject to any type of recording or written documentation. It is inappropriate to describe the dance as you posted. Your information is also inaccurate: Pope’ was NOT a Taoseno but it has been historically documented he was from Ohkay Owingeh (Yungeh to be more exact). Turtle Dance is incorrectly referred to as a feast day. Though this can be interpreted as such, traditional feast days are usually held on their patron saint. This would make June 24th, San Juan’s Day. And, we are a proud community to say that the Tewa language is written and taught in the schools.
I must also say that your tone is quite offensive. Everyone doesn’t sing because it would be too loud??? The “clowns” you describe serve a spiritual and functional purpose despite only seen in public as “humorous” and “acting out absurd pantomimes.” Writing about them as such is just like photographing, which is offensive.
Your statement of Pueblos being generally poor is also a fabrication of what you perceive as wealth. My family has a house in the village. Many of us live and work away and do quite well as scientists, engineers, teachers, nurses, etc.
More importantly, you should also remove the photos posted. Without going into detail, some of these images are kivas which are in NO WAY to be photographed. As a non-Indian this may be seen as rustic adobe buildings but to Pueblo people these are private places to be respected and revered and not taken out of the context you have placed them. You, as a visitor, are also a part of the energy of songs and prayer, despite feeling like a spectator. As one of the men in the line you describe, I must say documenting and attempting to describe detail detracts from the reason you are privileged to be in the village. If you truly wish to be appreciative of Pueblo communities, you would refrain from documenting and erroneously describing such deep cultural and spiritual practices.
Matthew J. Martinez
Ohkay Owingeh
Mr. Martinez ,
Thank you for taking the time to state your concerns with my original blog post. I have edited it to correct the errors and remove any material that caused offense. I am deeply sorry for any unintentional offense. I did purchase a permit for the photography from the pueblo office and no one mentioned any limitations on what should or should not be photographed, but I would be happy to remove any offensive photographs from this blog post. Please let me know which photos contain pictures of kivas and I will remove them immediately.
Again, I offer my sincere apology for dishonoring that which I genuinely meant to honor.
Respectfully,
Jeane George Weigel
The “ancient adobe home” you show belongs to my grandparents Placido and Veronica Cruz. My mother Estefanita and my aunt Patsy grew up there. My grandparents and mother have long since passed but my aunt still resides on the Pueblo. I was surprised to come across this web site and even more surprised to see my mothers childhood home.
I want to thank you for your interest in our culture and heritage. Im sure you meant no disrespect when posting these images. So many people go abroad looking for ancient history and never think of researching what is in their own backyard.
Hello Fay–Thank you for writing. No, I meant no disrespect but rather the opposite. How wonderful to hear from a family member whose beautiful old adobe home still stands, honoring those who lived lives there and enriching those of us who can only pass by.