High Road Artist

Working Artist on the High Road to Taos

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January 28, 2013 by Jeane George Weigel 14 Comments

History of Place: The Mountains of Northern NM

Snow Capped Mountains

This piece was originally posted on November 8, 2010 under the title A Little Mountain History. I thought there would be many of you who may not have seen it before. I’m endeavoring to give an idea of the place where I live. It is old. There have been battles for centuries, over place, heritage, religion. Much of that tension can still be felt today. It remains a wild and somewhat rugged place. In some ways it still feels like (and is) the old wild West.

I had meant to post a new piece today–presenting a showing of Kim’s work, but it is taking longer than I anticipated, so you should see it tomorrow…  and I hope it will be worth the wait. JGW

IMG_6321_edited-1

Note: I am currently reading William deBuys’ marvelous book, Enchantment and Exploitation, the Life and Hard Times of a New Mexico Mountain Range. I quote from this work but I feel it’s important to note that, while I have endeavored to use my own words throughout this piece, much of the information, thinking and even, sometimes, the words, are deBuys loosely paraphrased.

Old Barbwire Fence

History of Place: The Mountains of Northern NM

People have lived in the high mountains of northern New Mexico for many centuries. In fact there is evidence of life above the timberline of the Sangre de Cristos dating back to the time of Christ. These people, who were hunter-gatherers, are generally thought to have been the ancestors of the Anasazi. Most population development beyond this ancient time, however, was centered in the valleys, canyons and mesas, until the last few centuries, and consisted of Anasazi and Pueblos

Storm at Sunset

The Pueblos were farmers who also made treks over the mountains to the plains to hunt bison. But by the early 1500’s a nomadic tribe of Apaches came in and out of the area plundering one village and trading with another, virtually cutting off the plains to the Pueblos.

Snow Capped Mountains

After 1500 the Anasazi, Pueblos and Apaches faced a new threat to their way of life, with the arrival of the Spanish, and Spain’s subsequent colonization of New Mexico. William de Buys notes that, “Although centuries of conflict weakened the Pueblos tragically and threatened their very existence, their great achievement is that they survived as a people, and also, more remarkably, as a culture.”

Mountains through the Trees

Spain’s colonization of New Mexico would likely have ended after the successful uprising of the Pueblos in 1680, which drove the Spanish back to Mexico, if not for the power of the church. The Franciscans had a focused vision of the future, which included the building of many mission churches, as well as bringing Christianity to the native “Pagans.” They convinced the King of Spain that their goals were just and colonization continued. Military forces kept the Pueblos “in line” by killing or enslaving any who rebelled. Due to continued pressures, several pueblos were abandoned in the late Seventeenth Century.

In the 1700’s Comanches arrived in Taos, making their violent presence known throughout the colony. They effectively scattered the various bands of settled Apaches and nearly wiped out the pueblo at Pecos.

Snowy Mountains and Barn

It was into this environment that the village of Truchas was settled in 1754. A new governor of the colony conceived of placing fortified settlements along the routes the Comanches used for their raids. Truchas was one of these. Settlers received royal Spanish land grants, collectively, not individually, to encourage them to inhabit the inhospitable land (not that the land was Spain’s to give, but that’s another story). Their sole purpose was to protect settlements in the valley, along the Rio Grande, from marauding Indians coming over the mountain passes from the plains.

Snow Covered Mountains Tops

Truchas was built as a plaza in a square. All of its buildings were joined, forming a protective wall around this center into which villagers and their livestock could retreat in times of attack. Left, largely, by their government to fend for themselves, Trucheros survived the Comanche wars through hard work and ingenuity.

The bell tower on one of the churches in the village built in 1758 and still standing today, was used as a signal tower to warn the neighboring village of Chimayo of Indian raids.

The Revolt of 1680 had taught the Eighteenth-Century colonists not to try to impose their religion on the Pueblos. They also chose to build and live beside them rather than dominating them as earlier colonists had done. The two became allies facing common enemies in the Comanches, Navajos, Utes and Apaches.

Chickens

However, in 1846 the United States went to war with Mexico, throwing the colony of New Mexico into further upheaval. There had been the tide of American traders, miners, and ranchers, which was now followed by soldiers and scientists. According to William de Buys, “War was an accepted constant of New Mexican life, and the Anglo military men of the new territory proceeded to wage it energetically.” Santa Fe was surrendered to the Americans in 1846. The tenuous balance that had been established among the Spanish and Indians was ruined, for the Americans refused to recognize friendly verses unfriendly Indians and hard won relations were destroyed.

This trio of cultures, Indian, Spanish, Anglo, is what’s left in these small Spanish land grant villages of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. In fact the land grant families are still here, many generations later. Through it all, over the centuries, these three diverse cultures have learned to coexist and even thrive in some ways. It hasn’t been easy and has required much give and take, even some fiercely fought battles, both large and small.

Life here requires respect and understanding. Those of us who are new arrivals have to acknowledge that we are outsiders; that we will always be. We must also understand and embrace the privilege of living here. The original families worked hard, suffered and paid a price to carve out a life in these mountains. Those of us who have followed would do well to remember that. Every step we take should be “soft” so as not to disturb this balance. Our lives here should pay homage, in one way or another, to those who went before.

We people of these villages (and I do, now, consider myself one) are quirky. I don’t think we could live here otherwise. The land itself is its own powerful personality and is honored and revered. People still earn much of their livings from it.

Today while sitting the gallery, which is in downtown Truchas, a rather large herd of cattle galloped by the front door. They were being driven into the arroyo, down the mountain, to Cordova. Here sits my gallery, a part of the centuries old heritage of this place, but also a representation of its current-day life. Ancient and modern, old ways and new, woven inextricably together. Where does one stop and the other begin? May we continue to find ways to be respectful and balance both.

Love to you all,

Jeane


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Comments

  1. Grace Kane says

    November 9, 2010 at 2:45 pm

    Jeane,

    Thank you soo much for the well told history, if we all appreciated global history whether our own or others, we would be so much wiser. You have inspired me as you always do.

    “Although centuries of conflict weakened the Pueblos tragically and threatened their very existence, their great achievement is that they survived as a people, and also, more remarkably, as a culture”. – I pray we can say this for the global cultures as well.

    All goodness, great health, and grace be with you today and always,

    Grace:)

    Reply
    • jeane says

      November 9, 2010 at 3:47 pm

      I’m so pleased that you’re keeping up with the blog. Thanks Grace. I am immersed in the power of this place, more than any place I’ve ever lived. I feel the energy of those who went before and I want to know something about them. It’s a privilege to live near so many pueblos and to learn about their traditions, as well as the Hispanic traditions. It’s a magical place and experience.

      Reply
  2. Grace Kane says

    November 9, 2010 at 10:50 pm

    I enjoy very much hearing of your adventures via your blog daily:)
    It is definetly a highlight of each day lol.

    It sounds lovely – You are open to those organic and spiritual healing elements speaking to you – all around. I imagine you will always be open to your surroundings as your writing tells of, now that the quenching aspect of them is known to you.
    My intention is to simply stand in the magical places you speak of and be happy to have heard your tales of them beforehand.

    Perfect health to you.

    Namaste

    Grace

    Blessings and superb health to Chip as well:)

    Reply
    • jeane says

      November 10, 2010 at 8:03 am

      Thanks Grace. Each day as I write I’ll envision you standing with me wherever I am. I truly appreciate your support.

      Do you remember our trips to Hong Kong?

      Reply
  3. Grace Kane says

    November 10, 2010 at 9:29 am

    OF COURSE I remember the trips to HK. I recall getting enthralled by the sights and tangle of streets one lunch time and upsetting the Miska’s…oi. The wrath of RUTH, and not just from that event. And I dont know if you did but I ran each morning in that thick morning air on the water front near our amazing hotel. Oh and I have photos of at least myself I think YOU took in my very hap hazard wandering the streets garb…it was HOT remember? LOL. We were Kids….

    Always with you I send Love,

    Grace

    Reply
    • jeane says

      November 10, 2010 at 7:09 pm

      Yes, I do remember. My first trip there it was 100 degrees with 100% humidity. My glasses were constantly fogged. I did run on the water front in that very thick air. I remember the guys who readied our beds at night learning I was your friend and wanting to know everything about you. They assumed you were a famous American movie star because you were so beautiful 🙂 We were kids!

      Reply
      • Grace Kane says

        November 11, 2010 at 11:03 am

        OMG Jeane that cannot be what they were thinking lol…the folks that worked so hard at keeping our rooms soooo lovely. I mean I have PHOTOS of myself there…perhaps they found me ODD? lol.

        You are nice to think so 🙂

        XOXOX

        Grace
        Hey lets say THIS “WE ARE KIDS”:)

        Reply
        • jeane says

          November 11, 2010 at 3:37 pm

          They absolutely thought you were a movie star! They wouldn’t believe me when I told them otherwise. They thought I was lying to protect your privacy 🙂

          Reply
  4. Terri says

    May 25, 2012 at 3:27 pm

    all true words. will be very interested to see your response to Terry.

    Reply
    • HighRoadArtist says

      May 25, 2012 at 6:31 pm

      I’ll be writing a response tomorrow and publishing it on Tuesday. Let me know what you think.

      Reply
  5. Terri says

    June 15, 2012 at 10:49 am

    I always enjoy these posts. But one request I would love to see is that you would date these posts. I cannot tell when anything was posted, so do not know if it’s recent, from a former year or ….? Would Adam or you be able to allow dating of the posts? Inquiring minds want to know:-) I will pick up this book you mention, as I have always wondered about the history of our small northern villages and why they are referred to as insular in some discussions. Thanks!

    Reply
    • HighRoadArtist says

      June 15, 2012 at 3:10 pm

       I connected with Adam about the dates on posts and he put them all back in–sort of a flip of the switch, so thanks for asking. This piece was posted on Nov. 8, 2010.

      Reply
  6. Whinot says

    January 28, 2013 at 3:48 pm

    Often in my travels, I am spectator to the juxtaposition of the old and the new, and, on occasion, am left chuckling by the scenes. Walking through East Glacier, MT, I observed a would-be golfer scurrying in my direction, dragging his manual golf cart behind him. He was shouting that he had just been driven off the golf course by an approaching bear. And just as he was about to cross the street, he was stopped in his tracks by a herd of horses being driven to their night pasture by a local cowboy.

    Reply
  7. Joy P says

    January 28, 2013 at 5:42 pm

    Great history lesson reminder. Looking forward to Kim’s Art piece. Keep it coming!

    Reply

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About Me

About High Road Artist IMG 9461 150x150I am Jeane George Weigel, a working artist living in the mountains of northern New Mexico, and I do not think you and I are so different.

Every single one of us longs to know what we ache for, to “follow our bliss” as Joseph Campbell famously put it. You may find yours as an artist, a writer, or a teacher. But I am convinced we all yearn to live what is in our hearts. Some of us spend a lifetime discovering what that is. Some never find it.

This blog is about a journey of self-discovery, yours and mine. I write about the experience of living an artist’s life and share musings and photos as this living experiment unfolds. It is my hope you’ll join in the conversation by writing to me about your lives and I dearly hope something, here, will inspire you.

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